Northern California: (3) Surfing in Carmel

I admired surfing even before I could swim. That aspiration helped me to overcome the fear of water and learn swimming three years ago. And I've been practicing swimming weekly since. Going to California, I'm ready for surfing lesson!

It was June, but only around 50-55F for the first two days we were in Carmel Valley, and was cloudy and foggy most of time. Just did not create a mood for getting into the water. I was also chickening out about my water skills too. I seriously wanted to cancel the surf lesson reservation. The next morning, it was worse, not only it was cold, it had a light drizzle. K was still enthusiastic. We went to meet the instructor, very reluctantly, feeling unsure, I put on the wetsuit anyway. I was glad I did.

It was cold (55F in the air, lower in the water), and the waves were getting big for beginners. While sitting on the board and paddling out to the ocean, I felt as if walking right into a wall, a wall of powerful water--the waves were higher than my head. Before the wave hit, there was a little fear. After the wave hit, there was pure bliss. And we were able to ride a few times towards the shore!